What is Japanese Sashiko Mending?

Earth Day occurs annually on April 22, and last week we celebrated its 52nd anniversary with the theme “Invest in our Planet”. More than one billion people in close to 200 countries around the world participate in civic engagements and volunteer in their local communities to celebrate Earth Day each year. I was able to attend several in-person events on the campus of my day job this year, and I have been thinking of small ways I can incorporate more environmentally-friendly practices into my daily life.

Focus on sustainability began long before the modern environmental movement. We can look back to World War II, when raw materials for anything other than the war effort were scarce. Recycling centers were established, food supplies and goods were rationed, and advertisements encouraged people to make do with what they had. Like most of you reading this blog, I was not alive during WWII, but my parents passed down to my siblings and me many of the conservation practices they learned from their parents. In discussions in recent years, we’ve discovered that we continue to maintain many of these practices in our own homes. One of my favorite WWII-era quotes that I heard somewhat frequently from family members is still relevant today:

Earlier this year when I defined my word of the year as intentional, I knew I wanted to incorporate that mindset into as many aspects of my life as possible. In the past few weeks, I have been focused on being even more intentional with my overall purchases and daily practices, especially after what I learned about my habits during the Frugal February Challenge as well as the tangible examples Alison Spanner shared during her Small Business Spotlight interview. Her suggestions on how to be more intentional with our clothing purchases and how to take steps towards adopting slow fashion helped me to realize one area I often overlooked when thinking about sustainable living was my wardrobe. Since we are slowly transitioning back to working in the office, and my work attire could use a bit of a refresh after hanging in my closet for the last two years of the pandemic, it’s an ideal time for me to think about it.

If you’re like me and would like to take steps towards sustainable living, consider Japanese sashiko mending and embroidery. It’s a simple, fun, and sustainable practice that can be completed with just a few supplies that you likely have around your home already. By using a few simple embroidery stitches, you can breathe new life into your clothes with this beautiful and visible style of mending and stitching.

What is Sashiko?

Sashiko is a traditional Japanese embroidery style that dates back to at least the 1600s. In Japanese, “sashiko” means “little stabs” because of the short stitches that are commonly created with this technique. Although sashiko developed originally as a way to mend worn or torn garments, it has grown in popularity to include intricate designs that are purely decorative in nature. Geometric patterns are most common in sashiko, and stitches of white or natural cotton thread on denim or indigo-dyed fabric are prevalent. The contrast created between the thread and fabric colors gives sashiko mending a very distinctive and visible appearance.

What Do You Need for Sashiko Mending?

For sashiko mending, you only need a few basic supplies: a needle, some thread, a thimble, scissors, and some fabric (both to be repaired and for use as patches). I included several additional items in the photo and descriptions below that I have found useful in my sashiko journey. If you’re just getting started, feel free to use the embroidery supplies you already have at your disposal. You don’t need special supplies to produce beautiful results.

Sashiko Needle

Sashiko needles are typically designated short or long and come in a variety of sizes in each category. They are strong and sharp, and most have big eyes that allow for threading sashiko threads with ease. The strong shaft ensures the needle won’t bend or break in the process, and the sharp tip easily punctures thicker fabrics like denim. I typically work with long sashiko needles, especially when doing the running stitch, so that I can gather multiple stitches on the needle before pulling it through the fabric. When stitching intricate designs, I prefer to use smaller needles and employ the straight stitch instead. I describe these stitches below.

Sashiko Thread

Sashiko thread is 100 percent cotton and has a heavier weight than the standard embroidery floss available on the market. Traditional Japanese sashiko was worked primarily using white cotton thread stitched onto indigo-dyed cloth because they were both inexpensive and readily available. Due to the popularity of sashiko in recent years, sashiko thread is now available in a variety of colors. Since it is 100 percent cotton, sashiko thread also takes well to dye. You can use pantry ingredients similar to what I described in my hand-painted Easter egg tutorial to achieve beautiful, natural, and unique colors.

Sashiko Thimble

The black thimble in the photo above is a sashiko thimble, also called a palm thimble, and is meant to be worn on the middle finger, touching the palm. It is similar to wearing a ring, and it can be leather (like mine) or metal. Small dimples in it enable you to push the needle through multiple pleats created via the running stitch using the strength of your palm instead of trying to pull the needle through layers of fabric using only your fingertips. I don’t normally use a thimble when embroidering felt ornaments or doing counted cross-stitch, but I have found it very helpful for sashiko. The long needles with sharp tips tend to find each of my fingers at some point in the process, and I have taken to using a traditional thimble (or two), in addition to the palm thimble. It might seem like a bit of overkill to wear so many thimbles, but my hands are much happier in the end.

Fabric Swatches

Denim, cotton, linen, and even silk are ideal fabrics for sashiko. For all repairs, aim to select fabrics of similar weight for the patches to ensure they don’t stretch, pull, or tear. For silk and linen fabrics, you might want to consider using silk or linen thread, respectively, but test the threads first to ensure they are strong and won’t fray while stitching. If you want to add more interest to your mend, experiment with patches of different colors or contrasting designs, or feel free to add a second patch on top that is purely for decoration.

Scissors and/or Thread Snips

For sashiko, it’s handy to have a pair of scissors and thread snips. Use scissors to cut small sections of fabric for patches. To ensure your fabric scissors remain sharp and able to cut fabric smoothly, remember to reserve them for cutting fabric only. I attached the pink tassel to my fabric scissors so that I can quickly and easily identify them. Use thread snips to cut embroidery thread and to remove any frayed threads within the middle of holes prior to stitching and patching – this will ensure a more secure repair.

Fabric Pencil

If you prefer to have guidelines to follow while stitching, use a fabric pencil in a color that contrasts the garment being repaired. I like to follow a pattern, so I mark it on my fabric prior to stitching. It only takes a few minutes, and I find the time investment to be worthwhile. Once you finish stitching, you can remove the pencil marks either by dampening them with a bit of water or iron them (read the directions that came with your particular pencil to be sure).

Ruler

I use a clear ruler to help measure distances between lines, and I use it in combination with my fabric pencil to mark individual stitches in straight lines. I like things to be spaced evenly, but you can also ‘eyeball’ your lines by simply drawing them freehand.

Pins

When attaching a patch to a garment, pin it in multiple places prior to stitching. This will ensure it is positioned properly, and the pins will prevent it from moving around while you’re stitching. You can also use the pins to mark your pattern if you don’t have a fabric pencil.

What is the Difference Between Sashiko Thread and Embroidery Floss?

The main difference is that sashiko thread is non-divisible, while embroidery floss is six-strand cotton floss that has been mercerized, or treated to increase its strength and ability to absorb dye. Mercerizing cotton also gives it a lustrous finish. The six strands can be separated easily, allowing you to achieve different line thicknesses simply by using a different number of strands.

Although sashiko is traditionally done using sashiko thread, you can still produce beautiful results with embroidery floss. If you already have embroidery floss at home, go ahead and use that, just be sure to use all six strands for your stitches (so no need to separate them).

What are the Best Embroidery Stitches for Sashiko?

Traditional sashiko is stitched using the running stitch, but I include the straight stitch and whip stitch as well because I use all three to complete a design. Also, they are some of the most fundamental stitches in embroidery, so mastering them will help you complete many other types of projects. There is no rule that sashiko stitches must be running stitches; feel free to use other stitches you enjoy to create unique and beautiful motifs.

Running Stitch

To begin the running stitch, place the threaded needle on the underside of the fabric and insert it at point 1. Pull the needle and thread through to the top side of the fabric then weave the tip of the needle down (at point 2) and up (at point 1) three to four times before removing it completely. Place the fabric on a flat surface and hold one hand flat against it while gently pulling the needle with the other hand until the thread lies flush against the cloth. Tug the fabric gently to release any bumps or wrinkles, then insert the tip of the needle down at point 2 and repeat the process until you have stitched the entire length of your design. If you are right-handed, work from right to left. One thing to note is that embroidery hoops are typically not used in sashiko since it would be difficult to do the weaving motion while the fabric was held taut in the hoop.

Straight Stitch

Although straight stitches look almost identical to running stitches, they are achieved using a slightly different technique. To begin the straight stitch, place the threaded needle on the underside of the fabric and insert it at point 1. Pull the needle and thread through to the top side of the fabric, then insert the needle down at point 2 and pull the needle and thread all the way through to the underside of the fabric. With the needle still on the underside of the fabric, insert it at point 1 and pull the needle and thread back through to the top side of the fabric. Repeat this process until you have stitched the entire length of your design.

Whip Stitch

When mending, the whip stitch is used to attach one piece of fabric to another (i.e. attach your patch to the garment being repaired). To begin the whip stitch, place the threaded needle on the underside of the fabric and insert it at point 1 so that it goes through both your garment and the patch. Pull the needle and thread through to the top side of the fabric, then insert the needle down at point 2, at the edge of your patch. With the needle still on the underside of the fabric, insert it at point 1 and pull the needle and thread back through to the top side of the fabric. Repeat this process until you have stitched the entire length of your patch. Your stitches on the top of the patch will be straight, while they will be diagonal on the underside.

How to Get Started with Sashiko

If you’re new to sashiko or even to sustainable living, don’t let either topic overwhelm you. Start small and build your confidence through practice, trial and error, and finding what makes sense for you in this moment. Remember that sashiko can be stitched simply for decorative purposes, so if you’re nervous about mending clothes that you’ll wear in public, start with something simple. I hope the three steps I outline below help you to feel more comfortable getting started.

1. Find a Garment that Needs Mending or Embellishing

If you’re in the midst of spring cleaning or hoping to find something suitable to wear to return to the office, look for items that might just need a small repair or even an embellishment. Consider whether mending is an option before tossing or donating the garments or before purchasing brand new replacements. Items that are worn in multiple places or are beyond simple repairs can even be saved and later cut into pieces to patch other garments.

I generally avoid fabrics such as polyester or cotton knits (i.e. t-shirts or yoga pants), as they may stretch too much and pucker when patched. Your old cotton t-shirts or yoga pants can still be repurposed though – save them in a scrap bin for use as rags for cleaning or painting. They come in handy for all kinds of household chores and are a great alternative to paper towels. T-shirts have a long life in our family – first we wear them as outer garments; once they become a bit too stretchy or worn to wear in public, we wear them as undershirts instead. After a time, they transition to shirts we only wear around the house. Once they are full of stains or holes or both, we toss them into our scrap bins where they live a long and prosperous life as cleaning rags. This is one of my favorite conservation practices my siblings and I learned from our parents and all continue in our own homes.

2. Practice Sashiko Stitches on a Fabric Swatch

If you are new to sashiko, start by practicing on a small fabric swatch. The sample below was cut from a larger fabric piece that was pre-printed with the design. I purchased the fabric a while back and wanted to experiment a bit before diving into the full design. In one corner of the large rectangular fabric piece, a portion of the full design was pre-preprinted and was specifically meant for practicing stitches and techniques.

I wanted to create a square, so I used my fabric pencil to trace the designs from the bottom half of the fabric onto tracing paper. Then I transferred the pencil marks to the fabric by flipping the paper over and re-tracing the designs, causing the original pencil marks to adhere to the fabric. This is how I created the top two rows of designs on the fabric. If you don’t have pre-printed fabric with which to work, you can find many free patterns online (or you can design your own pattern – more on that below). When practicing, experiment with both the straight and running stitches on your swatch. As you gain more experience with the technique, you’ll notice that your stitches will become more uniform and consistent over time. If you look closely at my practice swatch, you’ll see several spots where the stitching could have been neater. Remember that the beauty of a handmade item lies in its imperfections, so try not to worry too much if your stitches aren’t perfect.

3. Create Your Own Sashiko Design

Designing your own pattern is very simple, and you can create intricate designs in just a few minutes. I designed the pattern below using Canva, but you can easily use PowerPoint or any design software package you have at your disposal. Of course, you can also use pencil and paper. Since sashiko tends to be done in geometric patterns, I let that be my inspiration.

1. In the example below, I started by drawing a series of evenly-spaced dashed lines that could be stitched with either the straight or running stitches.
2. Next, I drew vertical dashed lines in a slightly contrasting color (abalone instead of white) to add a touch of interest. This results in a pattern of crosses, which can be created with either the straight or running stitches.
3. I then added dashed lines vertically and horizontally to fill in the spaces between the crosses. These also can be stitched using straight or running stitches.
4. For the final step, I added short lines along the border to represent whip stitches, including a single diagonal stitch in each corner that would ensure the fabric patch is securely attached to the garment.

The whole design process only took about 15 minutes. If I were to stitch this design, I could either print it off, then transfer the pattern to my garment that needs repairing, or I could easily recreate the pattern using my fabric pencil and ruler. By starting with something simple, and adding details systematically, it’s possible to end up with a fairly intricate pattern that is still very easy to stitch.

Remember that stepping towards sustainability can be done slowly and in ways that feel comfortable to you in this moment. I hope you will consider ways to incorporate sashiko mending and embroidery into your sustainable practices and that you enjoy the process. I’d love to see your stitches and designs, so be sure to share on social media and tag me.

Happy stitching, friends!

xo, Tiffany